#4 Saison 24Nov08

A slight vatiation of my successful #2 Saison:

1) I need to change yeasts since it is winter and my house is now ~68F. WLP568 needs at least mid 70s, and has a reputation for stopping (or taking weeks) at lower temperatures.
2) My LHBS ran out of EKG plugs so I had to use the pellets and strain before pitching the yeast


Recipe:
4lb Belgian Pilsner (Dingemans)
1lb Weyermann wheat
1lb Muntons Cara-pils
8 oz Flaked Oats
3lb Briess light pilsen dry malt extract
1 oz E Kent Golding @ 45 min (5.0%, pellets)
0.5 oz E Kent Golding @ 5 min (5.0%, pellets)
0.5 oz Saaz @ 5 min (3.0%, plug)
Wyeast VSS 3711 (Saison blend), fermented @ 68F (avg house temp)
5.5 gallons total

Notes: Initial mash temp: 151 F; final temp 147 F. Original gravity was 1.052 for a mash efficiency of 65%. Final gravity was 1.006 after 1 week- bone dry compared to #2 Saison, and I'm guessing is a result of the lower mash temperature for the #4 Saison, rather than differences in the yeast. Decided to condition in the primary for another week rather than bothering to transfer to secondary for clarification. Add 6 oz corn sugar before bottling on 10Dec08. Condition @ 68F.

I intitally thought this beer was pretty good. The color, body, and flavors were nice. Grapefruit is predominant with some pepper. Good carbonation and nice head without being annoying to pour. But after about 1 month in the bottle (and having dogfish head 60-min IPA for a period of time) I don't care for it. There is too much of a phenolic character to this beer. I'm not even a big fan of the good (clove-like) phenol flavors (think Hoegaarden). But to me this is more medicinal. These flavors should come from the yeast fermenting, so this shouldn't have changed over time, I don't know why I am just noticing this. A head-to-head with #2 Saison seals the deal. #2 Saison is awesome. No phenolics. A maltier backbone (the WLP568 yeast isn't as attenuative as the Wyeast 3711). Unless I can find another alternative that ferments well at cooler temps, I'll have to buy some warming equipment for my fermenter so I can use the WLP568 at the recommended temps.

New car buying advice

We were forced to buy a car this summer. My awesome little '92 Civic hatchback (may it rest in peace) was totaled when an oncoming extended-cab 4x4 pickup decided he preferred to drive in our lane instead of his. You can guess who came out better in that match-up, and I feel incredibly blessed that my wife and kids and I (and my parents driving behind us) are still alive, with no permanent injuries. But I digress.

Since we often have visitors, we wanted to move up in passenger capacity. I hate the concept of SUV's, so I assumed we'd go mini-van. However, I was suprised at the poor gas mileage for mini-vans, although they are still better than most SUV options save one: the Toyota RAV4. If you have small children, and want to seat 6 or 7 people from time to time, this is a great car to consider. But you have to find one with the option for a 3rd row seat. Not may have it (they just started offering it in 2006), and there is only enough legroom for small children or carseats, but nevertheless it seats two kids comfortably. On our annual trip to Indiana, we achieved 29 mpg driving 75 mph with the A/C on. 'Nuff said.

Before buying a new car, I recommend educating yourself by reading the various chapters at http://www.carbuyingtips.com/carintro.html
I bought my RAV @ $500 below dealer invoice, which is pretty good for the top-rated, highest mpg SUV in its class. And I didn't have to deal with a bunch of nonsense from the car salesman- he knew I had done my research and I made it clear I wasn't going to waffle.

#3 Belgian Blonde 29Oct08

My third beer was an attempt to make something akin to Affligem Blonde, a favorite of mine in that style. One method technique I changed here was to "mash out" (adding water to the grains left behind from the initial mash) by adding 180F (instead of 170F) water. Supposedly the grain bed will cool the water enough upon addition that the water will still be below 170F (to avoid extraction of undesireable tannins, etc) and this will allow for better extraction of sugars from the grains. In reality, my mash efficiency improved about 10% with the higher mash out temp being the only major change, so I gotta give props to my LHBS (local homebrew shop) for the advice.

4 lb. Belgian (Dingemans) pilsner
1.0 lb Dingemans Cara-pils
1 lb Weyermann Vienna
4 oz Aromatic
10 oz oats
4 lb Briess pilsen light DME
1 oz E. Kent Goldings @ 45 min (plugs, 5%)
0.5 oz E. Kent Goldings @ 5 min (plug, 5%)
White Labs 575 (Ale blend), fermented @ 70F
6 oz corn sugar at bottling
6 gallon batch

Notes: Initial mash temp: 157 F; final temp 150 F after 60 min. Original gravity: 1.055 for a 63% mash efficiency. Fermented 10 days to a final gravity of 1.010. Rack to secondary and condition 1 week @ 70F. Bottle w/6 oz corn sugar and condition @ 70F 1 week.

Taste: Improved after ~1month in bottle. Flavors not as smooth. Disappointed with poor head retention. The increased oats definitely enhance a creamy mouthfeel. Consensus is the #2 Saison is much better, but head to head against Affligem blonde, my blonde was actually pretty comparable in character. But #3 Blonde is getting neglected due to the option of the #2 Saison. It's just that good.

#2 Saison 26Sep08

I made several changes to this beer in order to try and improve on my first beer:
1) Increase the amount of grain and DME by 1 lb each to make up for my low mash efficiency
2) Increase the amount of carapils and add flaked oats to increase body
3) Use 1 lb of malted wheat to increase head retention

Recipe:
3lb Belgian Pilsner (Dingemans)
1lb Weyermann wheat
1lb Cara-pils
6 oz Flaked Oats
4lb Briess light pilsen dry malt extract
1 oz E Kent Golding @ 45 min (5.0%, plug)
0.5 oz E Kent Golding @ 5 min (5.0%, plug)
0.5 oz Saaz @ 5 min (3.0%, plug)
White Labs #568 (Saison Blend), fermented @ 75F (avg house temp) in blanket-wrapped bucket

Notes:
Initial mash temp: 156 F, final mash temp 150 F. Original gravity was 1.056 for a lousy mash efficiency of 56%. Final gravity was 1.015 after 1 week. Transfer to secondary for 2 weeks. Add 6 oz corn sugar before bottling. Condition in basement.

This beer was a big hit. The body and flavors were much improved. Smooth with a nice mouth-feel. The hops were not as bitter, which I'll attribute to limiting my bittering hops to 45 min, and were well integrated throughout the body and finish of the beer.

#1 Saison 10Jul08

I never cared much for beer until I started traveling to Europe more often, and visiting Belgium in 2002 was a revelation of sorts. It's interesting that Germany and Belgium are neighbors, because they take polar opposite approaches to beermaking. Germany is famous for their "Reinheitsgebot"- a beer purity law originating in 1516 that stated German beer could only have three ingredients: water, hops, and barley (they didn't understand that bacteria did the fermenting back then). In Belgium, if yeast can ferment it, or if it might be a tasty addition (e.g. fruit, spices), it's still beer. Until the Reinheitsgebot was repealed in 1987, a wheat beer was illegal to sell in Germany as beer! Those whacky Germans!

The first beer I brewed was a Belgian Saison, my favorite style. A light (by Belgian standards) and dry beer, but with a lot going on in the flavor department. I brew the partial mash method (a marriage of all-grain and extract brewing). Details of my partial method procedure are in a separate posting.

Recipe:
4 lb Dingemans (Belgian) pilsner
0.5 lb 9L Crystal malt
0.5 lb Carapils
3 lb Pilsen light dry malt extract
1 oz East Kent Goldings (plugs, 5.6%) @ 60 min
1 oz Styrian Goldings (pellets, 2%) @ 5 min
White Labs #568 (Saison Blend), fermented @ 80F
5 oz corn sugar added before bottling

Notes: Fermentation was complete in 4 days. After 10 days, racked to secondary to clarify for 3 weeks @ 72F. Being my first beer, this took me forever to brew and I forgot to take an original gravity sample when I finshed @ ~1am. However, I didn't need an o.g. sample to know my mash efficiency was low once I tasted it. The beer was tasty, but very light. Considering it was summer, not such a bad thing. The flavor and aroma were nice. I was very disappointed with the head and head retention, and made some adjustments in my second beer.

Partial Mash: detailed method instructions

There are a few examples of partial mash instructions on the web, and when I get around to it I'll post some helpful links. But there are subtle varations and here's my excruciating details, which may help other beginners like myself.

· Put grains in nylon mesh bag. Tie at end.
· Heat 7 qt of water to 170F
· Add water to a modified 5 gallon Igloo cooler, modified according to the excellent instructions @ http://members.shaw.ca/Fly_Guy/mlt.htm except I had to get larger sized parts because my cooler's hole diameter was 1/8" larger
· Lower grains into cooler (measured temp 155F), poke to wet thoroughly , and mash (set) for
60 min. Temp will drop ~6 degrees during mash
· While mashing, heat 6.5 qt water to ~180F (no hotter, but slightly cooler is fine)
· When mash is completed, collect wort directly into 5 gal boil pot. No need to “recirculate”the wort to clarify
· Add the 6.5 qt of 180F water to cooler. Let sit for 10 min (temp dropped to ~165F)
· Drain into the boil pot to provide a total of ~ 3 gallons.
· Bring the wort to a boil
· Add bittering hops in a mesh bag and begin 45 min boil
· After 45 min (15 min remaining), remove bittering hops and add dry malt extract
· 10 min after adding DME, add flavor and aroma hops in a mesh bag
· Afer 5 min remove brewpot from heat and put in sink.
· Cool until 95F by gently stirring and draining multiple water baths from sink. Removed aroma hops bag after cooling.
· Do not let anything non-sterile touch the wort from now on!
· Sterilize (Star-san) fermenter, pitcher, strainer, yeast packet, ladel
· Add 2.5 gallons filtered water to fermenter
· Pour wort through strainer (to remove pellet hops) into fermenter to make ~5.5 gallons
· Aerate the wort by pouring back and forth between fermentation bucket and pot
· Pitch yeast
· Remove sample with sanitized ladel and measure Original Gravity
· Bubbler should be active by next afternoon
· When bubbling stops, remove sample with sanitized ladel and measure Final Gravity
· Rack to secondary, if desired, and condition for additional week or two to clarify
· Bottle: Sanitize autosiphon, bottling bucket, bottle caps.
· Clean bottles with jet washer
· Sanitize bottles in dishwasher (water only- no detergent!) for 45 min on heavy duty cycle (140F water)
· Boil 2c water and add 6 oz. corn sugar (high carbonation level). Add to bottling bucket and
then rack beer to bottling bucket. Stir after racking to make sure sugar is well mixed.
· Bottle and condition for 1 week @ ~70F.

Introduction

I'm not sure which is dominant: the components of my personality which have contributed to me becoming a scientist/chemist, or the many years of scientific experience that have contributed to shaping my personality. Whatever the case, life and science are always integrated for me, such that my kitchen is basically a lab in which I get to eat my experiments.

I often approach solving problems in life with a similar rigor as I do when in the lab. This means research. Therefore, I never make a major decision in life without doing the proper research, educating myself, therefore assuring that I did everything in my power to make the best decision. The internet has obviously been a Godsend for me. And no, I did not find my wife on the internet, thank you very much!

Ideally, this blog will give back some of what I've learned to others who are researching topics. Especially in regards to homebrewing, a recent research interest of mine which is enjoyed on multiple levels. Expecting others to benefit educationally may be presumptious, so hopefully this can be at least a little entertaining, and if nothing else, enable friends and colleagues from past lives to catch up with where I'm at and what I'm doing.